It can be said with an unspoken certitude that Pakistani’s are not any behind when it comes to curbing their appetite, especially considering the scrumptious offerings that every region of this nation has to offer. However, what is most definitely a fact is that the food industry is currently the second largest industry in Pakistan.
From high-end restaurants, with international chefs serving lavish fares and foreign recipes, to perfected cuisines that are indigenous to different cultures and provinces, and are as old as the land itself, Pakistan has always held and provided, the highest possible standard when it comes to eatables.
If we observe the past 2 decades in terms of food trends in the country, Pakistani’s, after spending an exorbitant amount of time and money into consuming and commercializing international cuisines from all over the world, are seen slowly coming back to their roots and opting for traditionally made Pakistani cuisines. From Italian, French, and fast-food eateries, to street food made on the side of the road, the nation’s food choices are unpredictable, to say the least. Especially since the new trend on the horizon seems to be the Dhaba culture that has taken especially Karachi, Islamabad, and Lahore by storm.
According to Wikipedia, Dhaba is a roadside restaurant, generally located on highways, serving the local cuisines of their respective region. Before the popularity of Dhabas, they served as a pit stop for truck drivers and such, to refuel and eat a meal before their impending journey.
They slowly gained popularity amongst the city folks when traveling families or groups of friends started to frequent these places, which gave people the idea of moving the concept of these Dhabas to the big cities and market it by highlighting its simplicity, and it’s unembellished, yet delectable menu.
Therefore, these Dhabas, which previously existed in the middle of nowhere, found their way into the hearts of all the cities of Pakistan.
Keeping in mind the fact that the people of our nation were just taking a subtle turn from absolute westernization, and cultural and traditional aspects, especially when it came to cuisines and apparel, were just starting to appeal to them, the quality that attracted them the most to these homely locations was the incredibly simple and rustic ambiance.
Decorated with handcrafted ornaments from local roadside sellers instead of paintings from famous artists, and in places of plushly cautioned chairs and designer wooden tables there were woven cots and a bench for a table, the unadulterated and true to their natural settings did not cease to fascinate the people.
Not to mention the incredible food. A firmly traditional way of cooking Naan and Roti, the flattened dough is cooked in clay ovens more commonly known as “Tandoors” and served hot and fresh along with the order.
Now, considering the history of Dhabas, which date back to the pre-partition days, the Grand Trunk Road was infused with truck drivers transporting goods from Peshawar to Calcutta. Since most of the drivers, initially then, were of Sikh descend, the food served at these roadside restaurants, which were popping up speedily along the G.T. Road, was authentic Punjabi cuisine like Alu ka Paratha, Lassi, Achar, Daal Makhni, etc.
Throughout the years several new additions have been made to the menu, especially upon the modernization of these roadside eateries. Some of the most prominent and popular ones are the Nutella Naan/Paratha, Cheese Paratha, and Pizza Paratha.
However, what we can all agree unanimously on is that Dhabbas have played a monumental role in making Chai, if not popular then most certainly a trend, in today’s youth.
Though the exact etymology of Dhaba is somewhat unclear, many have suggested that it derives from the word “Dabba” as in lunch box or tiffin box. Dawn described these pre-modernized eateries as simple establishments that catered to the working class. And unknown to many, by the 20th century, these highway stops were highly popular amongst these truckers and highway transporters. One of the most famous ones before the partition was one Kesar Da Dhaba built in the year 1916 in Sheikhupura. However, this establishment was moved to the walled city of Amritsar after the partition in 1947.
Post partition, these establishments were still a prominent fixture along the highways, but what changed was the clientele and because of that, the cuisines. After the partition, the intercity transportation business started to comprise heavily of drivers of the Pashtun descend, and therefore the food changed from Daal Makhni and Alu ka Paratha to serving authentic breakfast items like Doodh Patti, Eggs, and Plain Parathas.
And therefore, after noticing the popularity of these places amongst the city locals, the entrepreneurs decided to set up Dhaba-like hotels in the streets of the cities in the early 1960s.
Staying true to their 1960’s roots, these Dhaba owners did little to amp up the ambiance up until the 1990s when Café Clifton came into being. It became enormously popular amongst the high-end clientele, who thoroughly enjoyed the appetizing food but tended to dine in their cars instead of mixing with the regular working class.
Considering the frequent visitations of a subsequently higher class, these Dhabas started adding costlier items to their menu, which seemed to do equally well.
However, the absolute and complete urbanization of these places took place a few years back when women started to frequent these establishments.
Previously a firmly male-dominated area that seemed to exist on every corner of the street, with the majority of its clients belonging to the middle and lower class, the conventionality of these places seemingly skyrocketed upon the increasing frequency of the visitations by women in order to claim back public spaces. This then inadvertently prompted the idea of safe spaces for other women, and then, eventually, families who now dine out without hesitation.
And thus, these roadside highway eateries which existed in the middle of nowhere made their way into the cities and became somewhat of cultural heritage in progress.
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