The quaint little village of Saidpur is located near the capital city of Islamabad, Pakistan. As it is nestled right beside the Margalla Hills, it is often considered to be scenic. The village is known for its artisans, heritage, legacy, and so much more. In her book, ‘Glimpses into Islamabad’s Soul’, Fauzia Minallah, said, “The distinct cultural identity of Saidpur has always been its pottery and it has always been known as the potters’ village.”
It is one of the oldest villages in the region, more than 250 years old, and has always been a hub of religious tourism due to the presence of multiple shrines and temples from different religions.
History of the Village
The village has stood witness to multiple civilizations of Gandhara, the Buddhists, the Greeks, the Maurya Empire, the Mughal Empire, and the British Raj. The foundations of the village were laid in 1530 and it was named Fatehpur Baoli after Mirza Fateh Ali.
Before there was any hint of a village, the region was more of a garden resort with beautiful ponds and a stream bubbling away nearby. It is called a Mughal-era village because it was the Mughal Emperor Akbar who gifted this village to Said Khan Gakhar as a reward for his service to the empire during the war against Sher Shah Suri.
The son of Akbar, Saleem, better known as Jahangir married the daughter of Said Khan. In his Tuzk-e-Jahangiri, the emperor mentioned Saidpur village as ‘a place beyond Rawalpindi’ where he stayed for some time on his way to Kabul.
For the Hindus of the village, the region is sacred for other reasons. Jag Mohan Arora, a resident of Islamabad, explained, “Lord Ram, his wife Sita, and his brother Lakshman arrived in the Margalla Hills during their 14-year exile and stayed in this village and drank the water from the pond. Ram went to Swat, to Ram Takht, and spent some time in the Saidpur village area when he was returning to his hometown.”
For the longest time, Hindus from all over used to pilgrimage to the area and stay in the Dharamshala beside the mandir. The festival was held once a year and is called Baisakhi. It is celebrated to welcome the spring harvest. Another festival that was held each year was the Rama festival as per official records of 1893. It was held at the Rama Kund, the pond from which Ram drank.
After the Mughals, the next stage in the development of Saidpur village is commented on by Minallah, “The Persian book ‘Kaigor Namah’ beautifully describes the place [Saidpur] during the visit of the Mughal commander Raja Man Singh in about 1580. It was a garden resort with a number of natural streams supplying water for drinking and irrigation. Raja Man Singh was so enamored by the village that he turned it into a place of religious worship. He constructed raised platforms, walled enclosures and a number of kunds (ponds) called Rama kunda, Sita kunda, Lakshaman kunda and Hanuman kunda named after the characters of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Saidpur was declared a pilgrim center and Rama kunda was preserved right up to 1947.”
CDA’s Attempt at Renovation
In 2006, the Capital Development Authority launched a project to completely revitalize the Saidpur village, not only to put the village on the tourism map but also to better the economic and social condition of the people whilst preserving the heritage. The original plan was to improve the physical conditions of the buildings and roads, preserve and renovate historical places, open new restaurants and museums, provide waste management and cleaning services to the entire village, install water and gas supply systems and create employment opportunities for the locals.
After spending nearly Rs. 400 million, high-end restaurants were erected, a museum was opened in the mandir, and historic buildings were restored to reflect not the local culture/designs but something completely foreign. The work carried out to clean out the storm drainage system, clean up the streets, and build roads was temporary and focused around the main square only.
Facade of Interfaith Harmony
One of the reasons that Saidpur village is celebrated significantly in Pakistan is because followers of three different religions live in the vicinity: Muslims, Hindus, and Sikhs. It is said to be the perfect example of harmony between religious groups of the country but is that the truth?
Once Pakistan became independent, every evidence of religious artifacts was removed from the mandir and gurdwara. Most of the Hindu population migrated to India once the partition was finalized and took their idols with them. Furthermore, the religious minorities that are left in the area are oppressed. They are not allowed to pray in their temples. The mandir was converted into a girl’s school and remained so till 2006, despite the Hindu community’s protest.
Additionally, the people are not even allowed to restore the temple. Meena Kumari, hailing from Rawalpindi, despaired, “Although the white in the national flag represents minorities, the reality is different as our worship places face lack of preservation and the temple in this village is ample proof of this.” She added, “The temple’s electricity has been disconnected since the last time I visited two years ago. The locals are dumping their garbage around the building. However, the biggest insult is that our deities have been removed from the temple.”
During the 2006-2008 CDA renovation of the Saidpur village, the government blatantly ignored the religious sentimentality of the Hindu community. Jag Mohan Arora elaborated more, “There are three ponds – Ram Kund, Sita Kund, and Lakshman Kund. But after the CDA’s renovations, the ponds were not preserved and were built over and handed over to restaurants where people are being served meat dishes, which is a disgrace to the sanctity of a sacred place for Hindus… It is a religious site for Hindus and Sikhs in the area.”
Decaying State of the Village
At present, Saidpur village is in shambles. Piles of solid waste cover the roads and crumbling buildings are all one can see. The historic buildings that were renovated have started deteriorating. The once beautiful ponds have all dried up and garbage has taken their place. Despite the government’s initial vision of helping artisans grow, nothing has been done and the once-revered artisans of the village are a dying breed.
The government’s promise to create jobs for the locals remains unfulfilled and people are barely surviving. The village is a picture of neglect and an echo of capitalism exists as the high-end restaurants can only be afforded by rich tourists coming from outside the village. Moreover, the village has an illegal settlement problem, and the feeble efforts to eradicate the encroachment issue are still being made by the government. The sentiment of government officials regarding the inhabitants of the illegal settlements is reflected by Member Estate CDA Shaista Sohail when she said, “The outsiders will have to return to their hometowns. We have seen their national identity cards that showed their permanent addresses. Those who have been living in Islamabad for many years and are residents, their villages, and katchi abadis will be upgraded or shifted to other sectors.”
