Reading Time: 4 minutes The most logical explanation given by the archeologists is that the crocodiles came washed with an ancient flood. Some of them claim to have found fossil remains that are thousands of years old. Through carbon dating, some of the bones are found to be from the Bronze Age, while copper artifacts were also discovered from the same period.
Manghopir or Mangopir is a neighborhood located in the Malir area of Karachi, Pakistan. A vast number of ethnic groups reside here. This area is home to one of the most fascinating shrines in the country. There is a small pond based in the shrine where hundreds of crocodiles live.
The crocodiles living in this pond share a small area and are considered sacred by the people visiting the shrine. The most common inhabitants and visitors of the place are from the Sheedi community, a Pakistani community of African descent. It is famously believed to be the shrine of Haji Syed Khawaja Hassan Sakhi Sultan. However, there are several legends tied to the place.
Along with the crocodiles, Manghopir is also famous for its hot sulphuric springs. The springs are believed to have miraculous healing powers. For centuries, people from Iran, Afghanistan, and parts of Pakistan have traveled to the shrine in hopes of healing from diseases like skin diseases, strokes, and especially leprosy.
One of the devotees who had made his way from KPK to the shrine in hopes of a cure for his skin infection made the following comments:
“I healed and then I stayed back here for work. When my relatives have skin problems now, I say board the bus and come to Manghopir!”
He also introduced the springs to one of his relatives who suffered from a stroke and said with confidence:
“After a bath or two, his arm will work fully”
The most logical explanation given by the archeologists is that the crocodiles came washed with an ancient flood. Some of them claim to have found fossil remains that are thousands of years old. Through carbon dating, some of the bones are found to be from the Bronze Age, while copper artifacts were also discovered from the same period. The designs of the artifacts give the idea that the people of the village that lived here might have worshipped crocodiles.
Apart from that, the people have been telling some interesting stories about the shrine and the crocodiles that reside at Manghopir. The people believe that these crocodiles are the disciples of Manghopir.
The first legend revolves around the travels of the Sufi saint Baba Farid Ganjshakar for the pilgrimage to Makkah. It is said that during the saint’s travels, his convoy was attacked by Mangho Wasa, a notorious bandit. When the bandit met Baba Farid, he got enthralled by him to an extent that he became a Muslim, vowed to give up crime, and started to practice Sufism. Baba Farid later bestowed him with the title of Pir.
In this legend, there are two different versions of how the crocodiles got there. One of the followers of the saint believed:
“Before leaving, he promised Manghopir a gift that would keep his name legendary forever. He drew lice from his hair and told Manghopir to put them into water. Manghopir dropped the lice into the lagoon, and each louse became a crocodile – a sacred crocodile.”
Some people believe that when Manghopir suffered from lice, his frustration made him stomp his feet on the ground which gave rise to two sulfur springs. The lice in Manghopir’s hair then jumped into the springs and became crocodiles.
According to the wall plaque at the shrine, Manghopir is described as an Arab who joined the Mughal army to fight against the Turco-Mongol conqueror Tamerlane. Upon his return after the war, he saw a vision where the Prophet Muhammad asked him to go to Ajudhan, the present-day Pak Pattan where he met Baba Farid who directed him toward the place that is now known as Manghopir.
There are several other stories revolving around the origin of the shrine and the crocodiles. One of them is that they were gifted by Baba Farid to Manghopir. Another one states that they were brought to the area by More Mubarak, another saint from a nearby area. This theory is backed by the fact that the largest crocodile in the pond is called “More Sawab.”
Sheedi Mela, also known as the crocodile festival, is an annual four-day festival celebrated at the Manghopir Shrine. It is called Sheedi Mela because it is largely organized and celebrated by the Sheedi community.
The festival includes a procession towards the shrine dancing to the beat of drums. The festival includes the sacrifice of a goat which is fed to the crocodiles in the pond. The More Sawab or the chief crocodile is colored with iron oxide and is fed meat and sweets. A crown is also kept on the head of More Sawab. Moreover, More Sawab’s body is covered with fragrances and adorned with flower garlands. When it eats the meat and raises its head above the ground, the devotees believe that their ritual has been accepted.
The Sheedi Mela faced a long suspension due to the terrorist activities carried out by the Taliban. In 2010, the festival was canceled by the Sindh government due to constant threats by TTP. This severely disrupted the food supply of the crocodiles. The proceeds from the Sheedi Mela fed the crocodile for a significant amount of time. Not only the festival was canceled, but the constant fear of terrorist attacks stopped people from visiting the shrine on normal days. The crocodiles at the shrine have mostly been dependent on visitors for food. The caretaker Mahmood said:
“Every so often we’ll sacrifice a goat and cut it up and feed it to the crocodiles, but these animals live off the donations of shrine visitors.”
Shrines were one of the prime targets of TTP during those days. In 2010, two bombs had gone off at the shrine of Abdullah Shah Ghazi. In 2014, a beheaded man was found with a note left in his mouth by TTP. It mentioned that the worship of Sufi saints was forbidden in Islam.
The Sheedi Mela took place again five years later but in Hyderabad instead of Karachi, missing the significant rituals that involved the crocodiles.
In 2017, after operations by the rangers and other LEAs, the colorful festival made its way back to the shrine of Manghopir. However, the festival was celebrated only for a few hours. The festival was held alongside the urs of Haji Syed Khawaja Hassan Sakhi Sultan even though both of these events were usually held separately in the past.
Once again, at the shrine of Manghopir, the sounds of Swahili songs blessed the ears of the Sheedi community, people were seen dancing, and the crocodiles enjoyed the special treatment they used to experience seven years ago. The Sheedi Mela has been celebrated in full swing like the old days in the following years.
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