According to British historian, Lizzie Collingham:
“The conversion of the subcontinental population to tea-drinking was a result of what must have been the first major marketing campaign in the time of 20th century India. The British-owned Indian Tea Association, set itself the task for first creating a new habit among the population, and then spreading it across the entire subcontinent.”
‘Chai’ (or ‘tea’ in English) is considered to be one of the oldest drinks in history and is regarded as a staple in South Asian households. The beverage is instantly recognizable in a variety of forms, flavors, blends and smells. The recipe for chai fluctuates between regions, families, cities and cultures. To the people of India and Pakistan, a cup of chai is so much more than what it appears: it is in fact a lifestyle. The thickness of its consistency, mixed with a myriad sweetness that soothes the mind makes chai a symbol of daily life; of company, hospitality and fond memories. For most South Asians, chai is integrated into their identities and comfort. But chai is not just part of this small section of the world. In fact, the U.S. is the third largest importer of tea next to Russia and Pakistan.
But, where does chai come from? And how has it changed in its consumption over the decades?
The Origin of Tea Leaves
‘Chai patti’ (or tea leaves) are a staple in our kitchens and homes. Their origin is, however, from elsewhere. The use of tea leaves in India can be traced back to 750 B.C., but its commercial use did not come to Indian markets until the 1800s. ‘Patti’ is known to come from the southern Himalayan region of north-east India and Burma. It flourished in China and was brought back to the Indian subcontinent buy the British. The latter acquired the habit of drinking tea from Dutch merchants in 1610, who brought the distinct shipments to Europe from Japan. Later, they would transport the tea to New Amsterdam (known today as New York) and became an official import. The drink become a part of daily European life gradually as a medicinal aid with therapeutic effects. Because of its price, it was only made available to the upper class. Tea gained wider recognition at the turn of the 18th century, and tea rooms started to become a norm around the nation. By the mid-19th century, daily tea drinking was an insatiable habit for wealthy aristocrats and officials.
Although China was the source of all tea imports into Britain, the demand for the drink was rising. The British then turned to India because they saw an opportunity to overthrow the Chinese monopoly and take control of the product. The East India Company exploited its trading practices when taking part in the spice trade in the subcontinent. Tea was indigenous in the Assamese variety, but it was considered inferior. However, for the Company, it served its purpose well. They could start small and then procure the Chinese variety to be cultivated in Darjeeling. They set up the first tea plantations in Assam and Darjeeling in the late 1900s. In a little over a century, the popularity of chai was at its pinnacle. South Asians were becoming the world’s most prolific tea drinkers, and it became a part of their national identity, both in middle and upper class homes. But how?
Promoting the Consumption of Tea
In 1935, the International Tea Market Expansion Board came into formation. The body was responsible for promoting the worldwide consumption of colonial teas. A calendar was introduced in 1936, which showcased a modern woman pouring tea, showing the intricate link between the beverage and the novelty of the time period. The board carried on a sustainable campaign to publicize tea drinking and its attached merits in the Indian subcontinent, as well as other part of the commonwealth. Free tea vans were organized, demonstrations of preparing tea were carried out the tea promotion materials were published in native languages like Hindi, Urdu, Marathi, Bengali, etc.
Furthermore, tea breaks were made mandatory at work and tea stations were constructed along railway lines to make the habit of tea drinking more regular. These “Chai wallahs” started propping at the railway station, and started fusing their own spices with sugar and milk. This gave rise to the tea found in South Asian homes today – authentic in its aromatic flavor and intrinsic freshness. The Tea Association was proud of this change and claimed that, “a better cup of tea could in general be had at the platform tea stalls than in the first-class restaurant cars on the trains.” Large hoardings and posters for brand new chai recipes were put up all over the nation, some of which can still be seen on the railway network of Bengal, modern day Bangladesh.
Chai in the Modern Age
The modern day chai we consume has not changed much since the late 19th century. In American cultures, the ‘chai latte’ finds its roots in Assam black tea, which is boiled with whole milk instead of water. Even now, traditional chai tea has found its way into Pakistani, Indian and Bangladeshi homes, as well as across the globe. Despite the monopolization and colonization of the beverage by the British, the most authentic cup of tea is still found in small scale dhabbas and the kitchens of our grandmothers. In some parts of the world, people drink at least four cups of chai every day. The drink is preferred at breakfast, lunch and during the evening supper time, with traditional snacks and treats such as samosas, biscuits and pakoras. Chai, in its essence, is home to many all around the globe to this very day.
